HELM Boots use Blake Rapid Stitch construction. This is similar to a Goodyear Welt but has some distinct differences. Where a Goodyear Welt will be very stiff, heavy and almost totally water-tight, a Blake Rapid boot will be lighter, more flexible and not entirely water-tight.

  • HELM Boots fit extremely true to size
  • We use full grain side leather in all of our boots and all boots are lined fully with calfskin.


Grain The outside of the animal hide. The grain side is typically de-haired leaving the grain exposed.

  • Full-Grain Leather A leather that is minimally processed so that the grain retains all of its natural characteristics and imperfections. The grain is not buffed, sanded, or corrected in any way.
  • Pull-Up A characteristic of high-quality full-grain leathers where there is a temporary lightening of color when pressure is applied. This is due to the natural oil and wax in the hide moving around.
  • Side Leather Leather from an adult cow, the hide is split into two equal pieces along the backbone creating two sides to be sold.
  • Calfskin Leather from a young cow. Noted for the tight and almost flawless grain. Calf typically has very few imperfections.


CHROMEXCEL is a product from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, IL. It is one of their most famous products. It comes from adult cowhides and is typically used for casual shoes. It is very thick and waxy and is noted for its distinct pull-up.

  • Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA
  • Type: Full Grain leather
  • Feel: Waxy / oily, soft and flexible
  • Finish: Smooth and bright

FARGO is a product from the SB Foot Tannery in Minnesota. It is thinner and more pliable than the Chromexcel.

  • Tannery: SB Foot in Red Wing, MN
  • Type: Full Grain Oil Tan leather
  • Feel: Pliable, waxy and soft
  • Finish: Smooth and matte