BootSpy Sizing Guide: Every HELM Last Compared

BootSpy Sizing Guide: Every HELM Last Compared

Nothing is worse than ordering a new pair of boots, waiting a few days, and tearing into the box only to find out they don’t fit. 

Not today! William from the blog BootSpy broke down the differences between our three most popular lasts - the 415, the 512, and 432 so you can get the right fit the first time. 

Be sure to read BootSpy's full review HERE or scroll down for a recap. 

The big question: Do HELM boots run big or small?

BootSpy's conclusion: 

"Most HELM boots run a half size larger than the most common sneaker and dress shoe brands. The HELM 415 last (for The Zind and The Hollis) tends to be a bit more snug, so order your normal sneaker size for a relaxed fit, or order a half size smaller for a snug fit you can break in."

415 Last | The Zind and Hollis

"The Zind and Hollis are HELM’s most popular boots, and both are built on the 415 last. 

This fit is more narrow in the toe than HELM’s other offerings. I picked up the 10D across all my boots and shoes, and this fit felt the more narrow at the ball of my foot. 

HELMs own sizing advice is that you should either order your standard sneaker size, or opt for a half-size smaller. So it can be difficult to choose which you should actually do. 

My foot is a D-width, but it borders on E-width—just slightly wide. 

For this, I could’ve gotten a size 10.5D and been happy with the fit. It would’ve been a more relaxed fit, but certainly not loose. 

While I think the 10D was perfect for the 512 and the 432, sizing is a bit more snug with the 415 last. 

So if you’re thinking about getting a The Zind or The Hollis, definitely consider if you want a more relaxed fit, or more snug leather than you can stretch out a bit during the break in

I don’t think there’s a wrong way to go—it just depends on how you like your boots to fit."

Shop The Zind and The Hollis

512 Last | The Charlie

"The 512 last is more roomy than the 415. My Charlie sneakers have more room in the toe area and around the ball of my foot. 

If you’re thinking about getting a Charlie, then I recommend ordering a half size smaller than your usual sneaker or dress shoe size. 

This is more in line with most heritage boot brands like Red Wing, Wolverine, and others. Boots typically fit a little larger, and that’s true for The Charlie.

The Charlie also has more room in the “waist” of the boot, so if you ever want to wear a thicker pair of socks, these won’t pinch your feet or overcrowd them."

Shop The Charlie

 432 Last | The Wilson


"The Wilson loafer on the 432 last is definitely the roomiest fit of all. I ordered a half-size smaller than I do for my other dress shoes and sneakers and the fit is relaxed and comfortable. 

If you’re thinking about getting a pair of Wilson shoes and you’re in between sizes, definitely order the smaller of the two choices. 

An interesting note on these: they’re much longer than most shoes and boots. This can make it feel like your foot is sliding around in them a little when you first wear them, but after the upper leather breaks in more, your toes slide around less."

Shop The Wilson

Read BootSpy's Full Review

Image credits: BootSpy


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